Restoring the Sacred Grounds: The Cemetery Expedition (2007 -2008]
When I returned to Israel after my first brief visit to Vilkaviškis, I was haunted by the realization that virtually nothing remained of a vibrant, 500-year-old Jewish community. The only true physical testimonial left standing was an overgrown, forgotten Jewish cemetery. I knew something had to be done. I decided to return—this time not as a tourist, but to explore and rescue a world that had disappeared.
At the very begining of our work
Building the Network
The project began with a simple inquiry floated on the JewishGen noticeboard. The responses were overwhelming. Through this digital network, I was introduced to Dr. Wayne Frankel of Bar Harbor, Maine. Wayne’s family roots in Vilkaviškis were extensive, and like me, he was captivated by a historic, hand-drawn map of the pre-war town created from memory by Dvora Dolev. Eager to see what could be gleaned from the extant gravestones, Wayne quickly became my full partner in the expedition.
Before leaving, we secured official permission to explore the grounds from Mr. Simon Gurevichius, leader of the Jewish community in Vilnius, and the Mayor of Vilkaviškis, Mr. Algirdas Bagušinskas. The "new" cemetery, used from 1875 to 1942, was now municipal property.
Dr. Wayne Frankel standing by one of the graves of his ancestors
The Mayor of Vilkaviškis, Mr. Algirdas Bagušinskas.
The Work Begins
In August 2007, Wayne and I arrived in Lithuania. We were joined by Ms. Victoria Riazanceva, our brilliant interpreter, whose constant smile and dedication became our greatest asset.
When we first stepped onto the cemetery grounds, the scale of the task was daunting. The area was completely choked with thick weeds and underbrush, and the local mosquitoes welcomed us aggressively. Armed with shears and insect repellent, we began the grueling physical labor: clearing the suffocating vegetation away from each individual stone, cleaning the faces of the monuments, and systematically photographing them. Meanwhile, Wayne meticulously mapped out the grid of the grounds.
An Unexpected Alliance
Our efforts did not go unnoticed. We had previously met with Mr. Antanas Žilinskas, the passionate Director of the Vilkaviškis Municipal Museum, who was deeply moved by our mission to restore this missing chapter of his town's heritage.
On our second day at the site, we received an incredible surprise. Looking up, we saw what appeared to be the entire Vilkaviškis Municipal Parks and Reserves Department walking into the cemetery to help us! With the local team working alongside us, the clearing accelerated at lightning speed.
Ms. Victoria Riazanceva,
Mr. Antanas Žilinskas, Director of the Vilkaviškis Municipal Museum
The Legacy Restored
By the conclusion of the expedition, our team had successfully cleared, documented, and photographed approximately 150 standing gravestones. Based on our physical measurements, we estimate that nearly 5,000 graves remain safely interred within the grounds—meaning that while the Nazis and their collaborators ruthlessly stole the headstones, the sacred resting places remained intact.
The deterioration we found was the result of decades of natural neglect, not active hostility. For Wayne, the trip brought a miracle: against all odds, he located the intact monument of his own great-grandfather.
We left Vilkaviškis taking deep comfort in the knowledge that our ancestors' resting places were finally visible, respected, and recorded for generations to come.
